You Know You Have Been In Finland Too Long, When...
This old chestnut has been doing the rounds of the Net for
some time and in places it is showing its age. We have taken the liberty
of adding a few glosses (for which we asked a furriner who's been here
over 20 years and is therefore probably guilty of most of the behaviour
being lampooned).
1. You rummage through your plastic bag collection to see
which ones you should keep to take to the store and which can be
sacrificed to garbage.
Apparently the plastic bags - formerly free, now costing
about FIM 0.50 - supplied by Finnish shopkeepers are vastly superior to
those in other countries. It's probably something to do with the weight of
bottles they need to be able to withstand. In bag-stretching competitions
(don't laugh, the Finns have had dumber competitions than that - most of
them are all that the American media ever reports about the place)
they have allegedly outperformed most condoms currently on the market. In
any event, sales of the small black plastic bin-bags (not the BIG ones
that line dustbin/garbage cans, but the little ones for in-home use) are
pretty poor, and everyone uses the plastic shopping bags as temporary
storage for garbage till it gets chucked out. An alternative and less
attractive theory is that Finns are too cheap to consider buying shopping
bags. Take your pick.
2. When a stranger on the street smiles at you:
a. you
assume he is drunk
b. he is insane
c. he's an American
Err... isn't he? This one is getting a bit dated, really.
Nobody smiles at you on the street, but the reason is that they are too
busy talking into a cellphone to recognize anything much more than a few
feet of sidewalk immediately in front of their feet.
3. You don't think twice about putting the wet dishes
away in the cupboard to dry.
Ah. Well. Now, I could tell you that dishwashers seem much
more common here than in Britain, and that the British habit - the poor
devils often only have that one sink and the silly two taps - of not
rinsing plates before they put them to dry makes me gag, but the secret to
this one is that Finnish houses and apartments have excellent draining
cupboards over the sink-unit, where the plates can dry off. No messing
with a soggy tea-cloth to dry them. One great advantage of this is that
the neighbours never give you "Souvenir of Where-we-went" tea-cloths as a
gift for looking after their mail and newspapers, but something requiring
a little more thought. When the plates are good and dry, you stack them in
the cupboard where you keep them. Simple, really. But in our house, the
chances are that the plates and eating-irons hit the table straight from
the dishwasher anyway...
4. A friend asks about your holiday plans and you answer
"Oh, I'm going to Europe!" meaning any other Western European country
outside Scandinavia.
OK. Someone's got to be on the periphery...and we do
tend to identify with the other Scandinavian countries, however much we
bitch about their respective faults. In many ways, Finland is an island.
This is best seen in the fact that numerous rock bands and other artists
think twice before playing Helsinki, as they will have to cart 25
truckloads of equipment by sea from Sweden and back, thus adding two or
three days to their schedule for just the one gig.
5. You see a student taking a front row seat and wonder
"Who does he think he is!!??"
I suppose this can only mean Finnish university students do
not volunteer information for discussion at lectures. Many of them are
probably asleep, and being young, have not yet perfected the technique
employed by MPs, ministers and heads of state for appearing to be awake
whilst dozing through meetings.
6. Silence is fun.
The national characteristic of polite reserve, currently
being remodelled as people talk energetically into their Nokias and run up
huge phone bills on Internet chat-channels. The old stereotype of
"talkative as a Finn" is becoming endangered as the country grows
increasingly urbanised and people have to communicate. On a related
note, Midsummer, a very liquid festival held at or around the Summer
Solstice, contains one element that proves Finns do have a voice.
As the evening wears on, robust and inebriated males of the species engage
in good-humoured shouting across lakes at one another, thus: "Pekkaaaaaa,
Pekkaaaa", "Arskaaaaa, Arskaaa". The conversation does not usually get
much further than bellowed first names, I'm afraid. In such cases, a bit
of silence would be fun.
7. The reason you take the ferry to Stockholm or Tallinn
is:
a. duty free vodka
b. duty free beer
c. to party
heartily...no need to get off the boat in Stockholm or Tallinn, just turn
around and do it again on the way back to Finland.
Finns are only mid-way up the European league table in terms
of per capita alcohol consumption (6.7 litres per head of 100% alcohol a
year, by comparison with the boozy sods in Luxemburg or France who drink
nearly twice as much). However, the Finns are the Maurice Greens and
Michael Johnsons of the drinking sport, rather than long-distance runners
(which is a bit strange when you think about it, given our earlier glories
at long-distance running). Alcohol is still viewed to some extent as a
forbidden fruit; it is heavily taxed, and whilst the Alko stores are
increasingly pleasant and well-stocked places to shop, the truth is still
that wines and spirits are not as easily available as in Central Europe.
Hence (at least this is my theory and I'm sticking to it) it pays
to have a decent belt of the stuff and get some benefit, if it's costing
so much and is hard to come by. Sipping is for wusses. In recent years,
partly as a result of tax differentials on wine, Finns have moved
from the grain and hops mentality in the direction of wine-drinking. At
the same time, they have slipped closer towards a European attitude to
drink - a couple of glasses on a weekday evening after work - without
totally surrendering their proud national traditions of getting legless on
Friday and Saturday nights and then going jogging the next morning to
shake off the cobwebs.
8. Your coffee consumption exceeds 6 cups a day and
coffee is too weak if there is less than two spoonfuls per person.
Hey...the coffee's damned good here. And we don't make a
fetish out of it like the Americans have started to do. We just drink the
stuff, and don't give it fancy foreign names and a huge price-tag. At
least we don't drink that instant coffee muck.
9. You pass a grocery store and think "Wow, it is open, I
had better go in and buy something!"
Opening hours have been pretty much deregulated, and most
supermarkets are open till at least 8 or 9, shops no longer close
infuriatingly at 2 on Saturdays, and they seem to be forever advertising
Sunday opening in the papers.
10. Your native language has seriously deteriorated, now
you begin to "eat medicine", "open the television", "close the lights
off", and tell someone "you needen't to!" Expressions like "Don't panic"
creep into your everyday language.
Errr... Yeah. I guess.
11. You associate pea soup with Thursday.
Several hundred years ago, when Finland was still a part of
Sweden and taxes were levied for the King, money was scarce and peas were
used for payment. However, since peas had hitherto mostly been used as pig
food, something had to be done to raise their status. The population was
thus encouraged to eat pea soup. Soldiers got a weekly portion of pea
soup, sometimes strengthened with pig's trotters and the fatty parts of
pork. After the meal the bones were used for magic. Thursday became pea
soup day, since the Catholic religion proscribed meat on Fridays and
people needed a solid dinner the day before. Over the centuries pea soup
has acquired at least nine different names in Finnish; moreover it has
also become a traditional Shrovetide food, before Lent. Today pea soup is
also inseparably connected with the Finnish oven-baked dessert pancake.
(Source: http://www.slowfood.com/food/soups/hernek.html
12. Your idea of unforgivable behaviour now includes
walking across the street when the light is red and there is no
walk symbol, even though there are no cars in sight.
After witnessing on television the horrific scenes filmed by
a camera atop a downtown Helsinki building - in which unwary pedestrians
doing the above were tossed into the air by passing cars, I can only say
it's sensible behaviour to wait for the little green man. Your
average city driver follows traffic lights, and usually stops for them,
but tends to ignore pedestrians hovering at the sides of crossings. When
there are no cars in sight, chances are the one just around the corner is
making the most of the unusual lack of traffic and will hit you doing 60.
It's not about independence of spirit, it's about staying in one piece.
13. Your notion of street life is reduced to the few
teenagers hanging out in front of the railway station on Friday
nights.
Again... it's not quite that bad...there are
lots of teenagers.
14. Sundays no longer seem dull with all the stores
closed, and begin to feel restful instead.
See #9. Also take a trip to IKEA on a Sunday if you want
excitement. Mind you, take a book - something like "War and Peace" - for
the lines to get into the parking lot and out past the check-out. The only
really dull day is Christmas Day (since Christmas is celebrated the
evening before), but you can read all those nice brick-like biographies of
former politicians that people bought you.
15. You finally stop asking your class "Are there any
questions?"
A wise teacher will only ask this question seconds before
the bell. This minimizes the awkward silence, and gives everyone a good
feeling that they would have asked a question, but...
16. Your old habit of being "Fashionably late" is no
longer acceptable. You are always on time.
Nyah... some of us are.
17. Hugging is reserved for sexual foreplay.
What's sexual foreplay?
The Finns are not big in the
body-language department. It's that "polite reserve" thing again. There
have been dozens of earnest studies of the Finns' shortage of small-talk
and touchy-feeliness. The upside of this shortage is that most Finns,
gruff and bluff though they might be, are pretty honest. A lack of
"daaahling" remarks and hand-kissing in the culture is matched by
relatively little back-stabbing after you've gone.
18. You refuse to wear a hat, even in -30C weather.
As with eating quiche, real men don't wear hats. Crispy ears
are a fashion statement. Seriously, however, anything below -10 tends to
require long underwear and the regulation woolly hat or "pipo".
19. You hear loud-talking passengers on the train. You
immediately assume:
a. they are drunk
b. the are
Swedish-speaking
c. they are Americans
d. all of the above.
Errrmmm... you always hear loud-talking passengers on
trains these days. Just before they start to speak, you hear a loud
peeping noise, probably vaguely reminiscent of Beethoven's "Ode to Joy",
though with the more modern machines you can programme in your own
ringing-tone, so it might be Black Sabbath or Lynyrd Skynyrd. When they
speak, they say things like: "I'm on the train", and "You are breaking up"
(as the train enters a tunnel), and "What's for dinner, love?", and other
valuable bits of communication. They are not drunk, nor Swedish, nor
American, but Finns through and through. Besides, this whole statement
sucks. If you travel on the New York subway or the London tube, it's not
exactly the Tower of Babel there, either. It's only the tourists who are
talking; everyone else is minding their own business, reading or doing the
crossword. Only when the train stops unexpectedly for a suitable length of
time do people start talking to their neighbours. Further empirical
studies are needed on the number of minutes' stoppage that is required in
different countries before I can buy this one.
20. You no longer look at sports pants as casual wear,
but recognize them as almost formal wear.
Almost??
21. You have undergone a transformation:
a. you accept
mustamakkara (Black blood sausage) as food
b. you accept alcohol as
food
c. you accept.
The sausage in question is found mostly in Tampere.
Fortunately, it does not travel widely, as it has no known natural
predators, and if it got loose it could destroy the digestive system of
the entire country. As it remains in Tampere, nobody really cares.
22. You understand why the Finnish language has no future
tense.
No, I don't think I ever will understand that one... Finns
are quite future-oriented at two particular times of the year. On the day
after Midsummer (see above), they say "Well, it's all downhill from now
on" and prepare feverishly for winter, and similarly after December 21st
they perk up and start thinking about Midsummer - ignoring the fact that
they still have to get through January, February and March before the
place becomes inhabitable again...
23. You no longer have to search for the flushing
mechanism.
How dare you! Finnish toilets are the envy of the known
world. The little bidet shower that you often get next to the loo ranks
amongst the finest inventions of modern man - or woman - and its absence
in countries such as the US is one more reason to be proud of our European
heritage. The loss to the language of "Pull the chain" is a small price to
pay for luxury commodes.
24. You no longer see any problem wearing white socks
with loafers.
Nope. And at FIM 9 for three pairs from the local Esso,
they're a steal. Hey, you can even change them every week!
25. You just love Jaffa.
This carbonated orange beverage is supposed to be the
panacea for upset tummies. I find it spoils a perfectly decent gin.
26. You've come to expect Sunday morning sidewalk vomit
dodging.
The writer seems to have signally failed to grasp the
cultural importance of this northern variant of hopscotch or "not walking
on the lines", as made famous by A.A. Milne.
27. You know that "religious holiday" means "let's get
pissed."
I have long suspected this was the reason why so many
religious holidays were moved from their correct mid-week position to the
nearest Saturday. Now I know.
28. You enjoy salmiakki.
Salmiakki is - hmm, how can I break this to you gently? -
salmiakki is sal ammoniac, and according to Chambers Dictionary of Science
and Technology (a venerable edition from 1974), it is: "chloride of
ammonia, which crystallizes in the cubic system. It is found as a white
encrustation around volcanoes, as at Etna and Vesuvius. It is used in
chemical analysis, in medicine, in dry batteries, as a soldering flux, and
in textile printing". Salmiakki is also the name given to a salty licorice
candy containing this strange stuff, and is immensely popular among Finns,
particularly when they are not in the country and therefore cannot
get it. It even became a drinks fad almost as threatening to the nation as
absinthe was to France, when mixed with vodka to make "salmiakkikossu".
Along with hard rye crispbreads and other delicacies, it is a staple of
web-sites advertising Finnish goods for the poor souls who are no longer
resident here. I have also heard that salmiakki is a by-product of one of
the nastier bits of the pulp and paper industry, but this myth, delightful
though it may be, is probably no worse than the thought that Finns of all
ages are stuffing themselves silly with something that might better be
used in a dry cell battery. You will never know until you have tried it.
29. You know that "Gents" is another term for
sidewalk.
The City of Helsinki is somewhat concerned about two aspects
of urban life at present, to wit the presence of "ladies of the night" in
some districts, and the weakness of the Finnish bladder. A few years ago
the old draconian rules about public alcohol consumption were relaxed,
with the result that major street festivals - May Eve and the Helsinki
Festival's "Night of the Arts" are two that come to mind - have become
very liquid indeed, to the point of public urination in places where
people shouldn't. The city fathers are
trying to curb both the hookers and the piss-artists. If you plan to
be in Helsinki on May Eve, pack rubber boots.
30. You know that more than four channels means
cable.
Yes, mate, and I know the Springsteen song, too -
"Fifty-seven channels and nothing on". Besides which, TV is yesterday's
thing - nearly everybody is tuning in to the Net instead. Apart from
English soccer and the hardcore porn that kicks in on a couple of channels
after midnight, most of the cable stuff is re-runs anyway, and it doesn't
come cheap.
31. When you're hungry you can peel a boiled potato like
lightning.
Many restaurants, even at the top end of the scale, still
make a point of serving the boiled potatoes that are a part of the fish
hors d'oeuvres table in their skins. This is not only in the
summer, when new potatoes don't really have any skins to mention, but also
in the winter months, when they do. I imagine it's a vitamins thing. Finns
are very adept at removing the skins, having learnt the technique from
birth. Other nationalities, unskilled in these niceties, look on in
horror. "Let them eat French fries", say I.
32. You've become lactose intolerant.
Milk is still drunk at the family dinner table, although
beer, OJ, and even - gosh! - wine are making inroads on this custom.
33. You accept that 80C in a sauna is chilly, but 20C
outside is freaking hot.
A teeeensy bit over the top... In truth, anything under 80C
is "a warm room" or a Swedish sauna. Outside of these two places, sauna is
generally unrecognizable anyway and not worth the bother. And to qualify
the outside temperatures, 1997 and 1999 were both vintage summers, and it
was in the high 20s (that's over 80oF) for days and weeks on end. Nobody
complained except the farmers, and they always complain anyway. Speaking
personally, I think too much is made of the cold here. It's all people
ever think about the place. I can assure you I've never been as cold as on
an English school playing-field. It's not the cold that'll get you, it's
the dark. November is for the real lovers of Finland. Anyone else
with an ounce of sense gets out on October 31 and doesn't return until the
Christmas lights go on. By the time the really chilly stuff hits, there's
snow about and it seems lighter already. Houses are so well insulated that
hypothermia is pretty much reserved for derelicts, but SAD ("seasonal
affective disorder" - basically a lack of adequate sunlight) affects us
all to some extent in the winter months.
34. You know how to fix herring in 105 different
ways.
35. You eat herring in 105 ways.
Well, actually most of us do far more than that...we knit
socks from herring, scrub our backs with herring in the shower, use
herring-eyes as shirt buttons, sculpt herring into dainty household
ornaments, grind up herring scales for use as an aphrodisiac, and fill our
cars with herring liver oil. At the current price of gasoline, you know it
makes sense. Again, this is all a bit passé. Herring is no longer
such a staple. For one thing, it is conspicuously more expensive
than chicken, pound for pound, and it's a lot easier to order a pizza or
Chinese. As Descartes said: "Cogito ergo dimsum" - I think, therefore I
eat takeaway.
36. "No comment" becomes a conversation strategy.
We've done this one... Politicians use "No comment" out of
old habits, believing they'd better check with the Soviet Embassy before
they say anything. They reserve comments for their biographies (see
above).
37. You can't understand why people live anywhere but in
Finland.
Well, you can't really call it "living", now can you? I mean
they just "eke out an existence" elsewhere. And one good thing about this
place (touch wood) is that with the sole exception of the summer
mosquitoes, we don't have many of the "Acts of God" that so often beset
places that are warmer, more glamorous, and where the booze is cheap and
plentiful. Which is nice.